The Back Door to Lake Lillian, Rampart Lake #1

Years ago, while studying the amazing "Friends of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness" map, I spied a pair of lakes, Laura and Lillian, that looked very easy to get to, provided that one take the "back door," an ill-maintained, dangerous dirt road going within a mile of the lower lake.  

Steep "Cheaters Trail"

The lakes appear to be easy to get to, but the trail to them is quite steep.  A fit person can ascend to the larger, more interesting, Lake Lillian, in about an hour.  Lillian is larger than it first looks.  A trail rings the lake and would provide a great place for some family time.  There's a small, beautiful campsite on the far shore.

Yours Truly at Lake Lillian - still snow here!

Today, small fish were sipping flies from the surface.  I inflated my Trail Boat and hunted the trout but they were too smart for me.  A young man stopped by and said that the Rampart Lakes, just a mile or so away always fished better than Lillian.   Being still early in the day, I packed up, hiked to the top of the ridge, and then down to a beautiful little spot that overlooked both the popular Rachel Lake and the Rampart Lakes.  Here's a panorama.

Ramparts on the left, Rachel on the Right

A trail descends to the lake through giant granite "Ramparts".  The first lake (of many) is the largest (though smaller than Lillian and Rachel).

Rampart #1

If you've seen pictures of the Ramparts you know they are elegant with rocky shores that are uncommon to this area.  The lakes are very popular, today there were perhaps two dozen visitors while I puttered around in my boat.  Many of them came from nearby Rachel Lake.

On this day, Rampart #1 was filled with hungry Westslope Cutthroat trout.  They were not picky about fly or presentation, and I hooked and lost many.   Four of them came to the net, the largest was 11", though I lost a few that felt heavier.

Pano of ridge view East

After a few hours it was time to head back.  The hike back up to the ridge and then across and down was punishing to the knees!   Two hours later, I found myself at the truck on shaky legs, tired, but happy to have finally caught some fish after the last trip's skunking.  Lillian was on "my list" and I can cross it off now.  The Ramparts were a lucky chance; one I was fortunate enough to experience on this beautiful day.

Thompson Lake

If you look on a map, just east of North Bend is mighty Mailbox Peak.  Just on the other side lie a series of lakes.  Two Granite lakes and then, over a "hump", Thompson Lake.

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None of these lakes are known as fine fishing lakes, but they are SO DANG CLOSE to North Bend that its worth making a trip, just to say you did.  And, they are beautiful, quiet and accessible.

Looking back the way you came

You park at the very crowded Mailbox Peak trail-head, where the Middle Fork road pavement ends. Ride your mountain bike about a quarter mile down the Middle Fork road and turn right onto the first dirt road - this is the Granite Lakes Road.  It used to be open, but now it is gated, meaning that there are 5.5 non-motorized miles between you and the Granite Lakes. 

Neat campsite at the end of Granite Lakes Road

 
Push your mountain bike three or four miles up the road and then hide it in the bushes.  Continue walking until the road forks.  Take a right toward the Granite Lakes.  At the end of the road is a neat little campsite if you decide to stay overnight.

There's a nice little trail a few hundred feed down to Upper Granite Lake.  A shallow creek connects the two lakes.  In the summer of 2011 there aren't any fish in the Upper Granite, so you rest a while, and then walk back up the road to fork, on your way to Thompson Lake.

Thompson Lake Trail

Up, Up, Up you go on more dirt roads until you reach 4000 feet (you started at 800 feet).  Now you leave the dirt roads and head on to a true forest trail, the well-marked Thompson Lake trail.  The trail tops a ridge and then plunges down to Thompson Lake.

As you descend, you see that there are several islands in lake.  You unpack your trail boat and fish the rest of the afternoon.  You might catch a 14" trout!  There are several campsites at Thompson, but you are bold, and you decide to set up camp on the main Island itself!

Camping on the main Island

To your delight, you are the only person at the lake.  You haven't seen anyone since you left the middle fork!  Sure you had to go 8 miles to get here but that just means you're going to sleep well tonight.  In the morning you fish a little bit and then pack up for the trip back.

The Road Back

The trip back is easy and gives you plenty of time to consider how lucky you are that you live so close the awesome Snoqualmie Valley.  You arrive to where you stashed your bike.  Put two hands on the brakes and hold on, you'll be back at your car in 15 minutes!

Where to Stay in Snoqualmie Valley: The Roaring River B&B

 
I get asked this every now and then.  "If I come to Snoqualmie, where should I stay?"  First of all, there's no place to stay in Snoqualmie Proper.  No motels, no hotels, no B&Bs that I know of anyway.  The town of North Bend has a set of hotels ranging from "rustic" to "rusty". 

However, there is one diamond in the rough that you need to know about, and that's "the Roaring River" Bed & Breakfast run by Herschel and Peggy Backus.   

There are five rooms to choose from, each with its own theme.   One of the rooms is built around a giant boulder!  I haven't stayed in that room but I hear its quite interesting!

Price is roughly double the ratty motels in town but the homey atmosphere and woody surroundings more than make up for it. And, after you factor in the fantastic breakfast (brought to you by Herschel in an apron no less) you realize that you paid a great price for a great experience.

 

If you are coming to the Snoqualmie Valley, and especially if you are bringing a lady-friend, take her to the Roaring River B&B.  After you check in, go back into town and maybe hit the Snoqualmie Casino for drinks, dancing and buffet, then retire to your intimate room at the Roaring River for the night.  Spend the next day fishing the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River or hiking up into the Alpine Lake Wilderness a mere 20 minutes away!

Pratt Lake - Camping and Fishing close to Seattle

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Pratt Lake is popular destination for the physically fit. It's 6 miles from either of two I-90 trailheads (Exit 45 - Road 9030 or Exit 47 - Denny Creek). The very fit can do it as a day hike (12 miles, whew!) but most people do it as an over-nighter. I did it as a 3 day trip.

I arrived at the Talapus Lake trailhead on Friday afternoon; the trailhead was strangely deserted. I had chosen this trailhead over Denny Creek because the Talapus Lake trail has significantly less elevation gain which was important to me as my pack was 31 pounds. This is a reasonable weight, considering the 8 pounds of fishing gear.

Pack Contents	Weight
Pack	5
Tent	3
Sleeping bag	2
Sleeping pad	1
Food	3
Mess Kit	3
Trail Boat	4
Fishing Gear	4
Clothes	2
Water Pump	1
Water	1

Teige and Wesley at Olallie

At two miles the trail reaches Talapus lake, one of the shortest and easiest alpine lakes to get to. I kept on going another one and half miles to set up camp at Olallie Lake. Don't bother fishing at Olallie, there's nothing but small fish there. I shared camp with a young man named Teige Weidner and his parent's dog Wesley. It was nice to have some company! Teige's pump had broken so I lent him mine. I was freezing in my tent that night. I woke up at 2AM and put all my clothes on, including my socks and I was STILL freezing! That's the paradox of clear skies in Seattle; it makes for cold nights. At about 6AM the sun came out and hit the side of my tent instantly warming it and letting me sleep 3 solid hours.

Looking down on Olallie Lake

We broke camp and back-tracked to meet the Pratt Lake trail and then ascended the ridge looking back down on Olallie, with Mount Rainier in the background. As we topped the ridge, Teige's pack strap broke and he and Wesley turned back. I promised to send him this report! The trail wound down into a giant bowl where Pratt Lake perches before its outlet tumbles down a steep hillside into the Pratt river Valley.

Looking down to Pratt Lake, Kaleetan Peak in the distance

The descent to the lake is 2 miles and about 800 feet elevation loss. I ran into a confused couple who thought they were nearing Lake Olallie. I told them that they had passed it 3 miles ago and you should have seen the look that she gave him. I congratulated them on their fitness that they could day-hike 12 miles.

Pratt Lake

Lots of college kids arrived at Pratt Lake about the same time I did, day-hikers and over-nighters. I set up my tent next to a giant old-growth fir tree. My tent is a $20 one-man tent (only 3 lbs) from Wal-mart.com. What a deal. I love this tent.

I love my one-man tent

I fished Pratt Lake in the blazing sun for four hours. I caught a lake trout and three brook trout. All were small; in fact, Pratt Lake is known for small fish so don't go there thinking you are going to catch a bunch of hogs for dinner. The lake trout was my first of that species! Strange looking fish, very predatory. Mean face, brown stripes, yellow dots. I believe these were planted to try to keep the brook trout population in check. I failed you, dear reader, because I had left my camera in pack, so no fish picture.

That night I realized that I was short on food. I had made some sandwiches but had forgotten them in the fridge. So my dinner the second night was merely a single packet of ramen. Not even the good ramen, just a 250 calorie Top Ramen. I slept fitfully, probably because I was so hungry. I was also very, very sunburned from my time on the Pratt.

Lower Tuscohatchie Lake

The next morning at 7AM I emerged from the tent, grabbed my fishing stuff and hiked the half-mile to the next lake, Lower Tuscohatchie. This lake is smaller than Pratt, but just as beautiful. Trees ring the entire lake, but at the far end, twin waterfalls cascade 50 feet down into the inlet. Absolutely gorgeous. There are several campsites here too, and had I known that I would have camped at Tuscohatchie.

Tuscohatchie Pano - click for larger

I fished for three hours, catching some small rainbows and completed my hideous sun-burn. You see, I couldn't use my sun-tan lotion because it had DEET in it, and that could have harmed my little trail boat.

Nice, easy, wooded trail

The hike out was 7 miles. My 30-lb pound slowed me down tremendously as I struggled to get back up the 800 foot ridge between Pratt and Olallie lakes. But eventually I got to the top. I plugged in my iPod and trudged the remaining 4 miles down the truck. All in all, I hiked about 15 miles and caught some okay fish. But the scenery was incredible and I'm even more prepared for my next trip.

the Pratt River Valley

What went right and wrong on this trip? The little bottle of Dr. Bonner's Peppermint Soap was excellent at cleaning dishes. I ran out of food because I forgot the sandwiches in the fridge. The sun-tan lotion problem of course. And I wish I'd brought a book, because I spent so much time in my tent when the bugs came out at dusk.

Lower Tuscohatchie in the afternoon.

What's next? There's a series of lakes (Island, and Kulla Kulla being two) to the West of Olallie. That area is still too snowy (they are 4000+ feet up) but they should open up in a couple of weeks. Maybe you'll see me up there.

If you go: Bring a GPS, there are several trail intersections that you can get lost at. Bring bug spray. Think about camping at Tuscohatchie which is only a half-mile beyond Pratt Lake, if you can't find a good spot at Pratt. Be sure you have the new Discover Pass (for parking). And best of all, enjoy our beautiful Alpine Lakes Wilderness!

Damsel Madness at Davis Lake (Winthrop)

Davis Lake north of Winthrop

The town of Winthrop is one of my favorite places in all of Washington. Casey and I had a great time there last year. And also, because of our association with the PNCC, our church is good friends with Pastor Steve, Shannon and the kids at the Methow Valley United Methodist Church. As I was in the area for this trip, I stopped in at their church and enjoyed the service, sitting with Shannon and Bob. I stuck around for treats afterwards, but by noon the fish were calling and I had to say goodbye.

I'd been wanting to get back to Davis Lake ever since Casey and I had visited there last year and had seen all those big fish on the fish finder. As I approached the lake in the mid-afternoon I was greeted by swarms and swarms of damsel flies.

Image Copyright Brian Robert Marshall. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic License.

Remember how my pontoon boat bladders had died on the ill-fated Dry Falls trip the previous weekend? I had since purchased (from Craigslist) an entire, still-new-in-the-box, pontoon boat and replaced my old pontoons with the new ones. I put together the resulting Frankenstein boat and fished shirtless and in sandals for four hours. I hooked fish after fish in every part of the lake at every depth.

Carey Bugger, tied for this trip

The fish were rising everywhere to the swarming damsels all day long. I observed something interesting. There were clouds of blue damsels hovering over the water. Every now and then a gray damsel would fall to the water and the blues would appear to "attack" it. I wonder if the gray was the female and the blues were the male. I can't say if that's true but the trout seemed to love the situation and would rise up and grab several damsels at once. Of the fish I caught, the largest was perhaps 14". Not a hog but big enough to make for a fun afternoon

The drive home was a long one - just under 4 hours, down through Pateros, Wenatchee, Cashmere and south to Cle Elum and then home. 650 miles in three days. Whew!

Nunally Lake, Aeneas Lake

Nunally in the morning

The Worst Summer Ever (weather-wise) in Seattle continues. I couldn't take the idea of spending a mid-July weekend under cloud-cover so I planned a long journey on the other side of the mountains. The first night I camped with some good friends at Wanumpum state park, on the Columbia River, just 3 miles south of where I-90 crosses the river. We sat in the dark and talked about the world until it was time to go to sleep in our tents.

The only way to Camp

Up at 4:30AM. Between the JetBoil and the Starbucks Via I'm caffeinated with-in minutes and driving across the bridge and then south to the Nunally trailhead. The mosquitoes were merciless, that's definitely a theme everywhere in the Northwest this year.

As I hoisted my float-tube down to the lake I could see big fish rising across the placid surface. Yippee! Out in the water was a different story; with no wind, the fish were very, very picky and I could not fool them at all. They appeared to be rising to little winged ants. I had nothing in my fly box that looked like that. I eventually broke down and switched to fishing a wet fly (a Carey special, the ultimate still-water go-to fly). I picked up a single fish.

The fishing died off as mid-day approached, as I had been warned. I had been the only angler there all morning, with only a crop duster for company. The fishing could have been epic if I'd been able to match this hatch. Maybe next time.

I used the unproductive mid-day hours to drive way north to the Okanogan region. Passed by Steamboat Rock on the east side of the Columbia, where hordes of campers were joining with the hordes of mosquitoes. Eventually I made my way to Aeneas lake, which I'd always wanted to visit.

Aeneas Lake

Aeneas is a beautiful little lake with a reputation for producing quality trout, but I'd arrived too late in the year; the water was too warm for trout. I fished it anyway but didn't get a bite. On the shore I saw a very strange site. The complete bleached skeleton of what appeared to be a fox or small dog. Eventually a thunderstorm chased me off the water and I got back in the truck to continue the trip...

Hyas Lake Hike

Panorama of far end of Lower Hyas lake.

Continuing that long weekend: after fishing with James, I stayed the night in Ellensburg so I could get an early start the next day. You see, the Cascade mountains are still PILED with snow, far later into the year than anyone had ever expected. Funny: on the local hiking bulletin board this winter, there was great debate about snow levels. The "doom-sayers" were assuring us that even though we had record snow fall, the snow was in fact melting faster and faster each year and that this year would be no different. Ha.

View to Upper Hyas

On the map, it seems like the trailhead to lake Hyas is relatively close. Don't be fooled, it takes FOREVER to get there due to many low mile-per-hour streches. The last 15 miles is on dirt road and takes about 45 minutes. The hike to Hyas was beautiful, and I'd got there before anyone else.

Cathedral Peak

The water level at Hyas was higher than normal, and windier and colder. I kept on walking; my destination was Upper Hyas, just a mile further. Upper Hyas, too, was overflowing with cold, cold water as the sunny day melted the snow in the mountains around. I couldn't even get to the main lake without trudging through 30 yards of surrounding mud, so instead I sat down on a log, ate lunch and enjoyed the view. I back-tracked to lower Hyas and fished from shore, but I could tell it was still too early in this crazy season.

Even though I didn't fish, I've crossed Upper Hyas off my list. The scenery there is beautiful, the campsites plentiful and I recommend it as a destination for anyone with young ones.